VENEER - filling part 2 of 4

Part 2 of the much anticipated VENEER series.
The first article explained how to deal with edge gluing loose veneer

Below is our missing bit of veneer we are going to work on.

Start by sanding any loose bits away.

Make a nice big fat centipede of wood filler.

GENTLEY flatten out the filler, over-filling the area.

Let this harden really good, a whole day would be best.

You need it to be solid because now your going to sand it smooth.

Sand your edges as well.

Paint and you're finished.

If you need to fill an area on a piece you are not painting, wood filler does come in different wood
colors or you must fill the area with a new piece of veneer.

Pin It Now!

VENEER - glueing part 1 of 4

I'm repeating the veneer series for those new to my blog,
and for those needing a refresher ...
I have many tricks for dealing with veneer issues before painting furniture.

With vintage furniture, veneer refers to thin slices of quality wood, usually
thinner than 1/8 inch, that are glued onto panels of a lesser grade woods.
Veneering is an ancient art, dating back to the Egyptians who
used veneers on their furniture and sarcophagi.

The first step in any DIY veneer repair is to establish how bad the damage is
and what route to take. I will go over edge gluing this time and eventually
share how to glue bubbles, fill missing areas, and the dreaded removal of veneer.
It is actually very simple but you'll just have to wait and see.

Many pieces of vintage veneered furniture have some edge lifting,
usually along the bottom.

It's a simple matter of using wood glue to secure the veneer back into place
and using masking tape to hold it down while it dries.

Use gravity!
Turn your piece of furniture over to get the glue run down in behind the lifting veneer.

I use a wet sponge to clean up any access glue before taping the edges.
Lay your tape on the veneered surface first and pull it tight over the edge.

Your drying time will vary with climate and temperature,
but a decent wait time would be 4 hours under normal circumstances.

Now go forth and Do it Yourself! 

Pin It Now!


When I last left you we had just finished upholstering the back side of a chair.
Now it's time for the filling and front fabric.
Many different materials can be used to fill in the back cushioning,
but these chairs originally had 1" foam in the back rest so I chose that.
Mark out your shape and cut it to fit.
I then trim the front edge off the foam to soften the look under the upholstery.

You are getting excited, I can tell.

Time to secure your front fabric.
As mentioned in Part I, I use a hand held hand, arm powered stapler.
There is no extra room with this install for pneumatic staplers with the safety feature.

Before you start make sure to fold over the excess edge from the back fabric, as seen above.

First staple ...

and a few more ....

 As in PART I when you secured your back fabric,
you are going to make another cross when you start to staple the front fabric in place.
Hold the fabric taught each time you shoot a staple in.

Continue folding the edge of the back fabric inside to hide it as you go along.

continue securing the fabric along the edge with your staple gun.

Now is the time to decide if the fabric looks good and tight in the right places.

I didn't like how this area looked so I remove one staple, pulled it tighter, and re secured it.

Take your tiny scissors and trim the excess fabric quite uniform at 1/2" long.
Small scissors are easier to use in close and tight to the frame.
This bit of excess is going to be folded over and glued.

Here you can see how important it is to have a uniformed edge for the fold over and gluing.
This edge is going to be covered with your trim. Secure your trim / gimp with a hot glue gun. 
I like using a wider trim so in case I made a boo boo I have some room for errors.
So far I have finished 2 of the four chairs I have.
Each being done in a different finish, the first one was the Pale Provence Chair
and the second was the Glamorous Grey chair.

I'm still finishing the last 2 of these chairs I have.
One is bright distressed white and the other is going to be a warm vintage white.
Stay tuned for a few more tips on refinishing the frames.

Pin It Now!


I've received many messages asking for this next tutorial, so no more need to pass by these chairs.
I'm going to show you how to get the back of this style chair upholstered.

We are going to start at the point after all the stripping and frame is already refinished.

I use a hand held, arm powered stapler with 1/4" staples.
I do have an electric stapler but because of the safety feature
it will not work with the tight ledge of this chair.

Here is a close up of the frame profile.
You can even see where the old staples were.

Start by shooting 3 staple in the top edge to start securing your fabric.

Figure out the best angle for your stapler to be used with your chair.

Here is a close up of where the staples are actually going into the frame.

The next place to attach your fabric is directly opposite of your first three staples,
down on the bottom edge.

Then across from each other.

Hold your fabric taught each time you shoot every staple in.

Once you have your 4 points of contact, simply go around attaching your fabric
with staples ever inch, continue to pull the fabric taught.

Once you are finished stapling, trim your fabric to 1/2 inch excess, I use small scissors cause
they are easier to work with in close corners.

Tip and turn your chair so everything you are doing is comfortable for your hands.
Make sure to pick a good work surface, I use my bed every time.

This overhang of fabric will simply be folded in and hidden inside of STEP II

You can bounce a coin off the fabric like a drum if done well.

Step II Filler and Front Fabric:


in shabby chic white hardware at

We have over a 1000 pieces of
 used hardware to choose from




Pin It Now!